Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires careful planning and a great deal of work. In many cases, you will require to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must select the type of shower that you want to set up. It is very important to determine whether the selected shower can managing certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the blocked drains assistance VIC push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly basic to install. Nevertheless, although the hose connection is simple, it is quickly dislodged. In addition, it is bothersome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very cheap choice and no extra pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with bothersome temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly discussed mixers. They also require additional plumbing of cold and hot water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of practical temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electric pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps in other places in use within the household. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains cloggeed drain vic water is cooler. Nevertheless, this issue is tackled in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to eliminate the drainage will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the instruction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to protect the pipes, they need to be offered a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this alternative, the main and distribution pipes will likewise need to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by reducing using elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can achieve this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or ignoring local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not effectively aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.